Frozen bleeder screws and flexible brake lines

rokemester · Post by **rokemester** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 7:56 am

Does anyone have experience or suggestions on how to free up brake bleeder screws. I've used generous doses of PB and the little buggers refuse to release. This morning I got particularly aggressive with one with a vice grip and it sheared right off. I'm thinking that I might be in deep kimshee on that one. HELP!

...and how about the flexible brake hoses on the rear brakes. How are they supposed to release from the bracket. It appears that I should be able to lightly punch them out with a hammer because when you turn the hose bolt it just turns in the hole. The metal brake line that goes from the flexible to the brake drum is removed.

By the way the wheel I'm working on was totally locked up. When I finally released the brake line it moved just fine. I was told that flexible brake line is the likely culprit. As the lines age they don't allow the brake fluid to release back to the master cylinder. I'm going to change all the flexible lines and try try try to unfreeze the bleeders.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:42 pm

My first suggestion is to buy the proper Bentley manual for your car.

If the bleeders are that crusty, the wheels cylinders themselves are probably ready for replacement. If the car has been sitting a long time, they might be siezed. They're not expensive, so I might replace them just so everything is new. (I just replaced one on my own car this afternoon.)

To open stubborn bleeders, after letting the PB Blaster soak in, take a hammer and tap the bleeder with about a hundred firm taps. Keep repeating this process until the bleeder turns. You shouldn't have to break it off!

For the one that did break off, you can still bleed the line by loosening the brake line at the wheel cylinder. But you still need to start thinking about replacing the cylinders.

Yes, the clips on the brake hoses pry off upwards. You'll need your PB Blaster again, a hammer and a large screwdriver to help pry the lock plates. Be patient and prepare to spend some time if they're rusty, but they will come loose and they will come off, even extremely rusted ones.

And good on you for replacing the hoses. Old hoses are a common cause of sticking brakes.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Sat Jun 13, 2009 8:45 pm

Also after reading your post again, never use a vise grip on a brake bleeder! Use the proper 7mm wrench only!

Ditto for an 11mm on the brake lines.

rokemester · Post by **rokemester** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 7:52 pm

Yep I learned my lesson on the vice grips. VW Repair for the Complete Idiot advised vice grips. I purchased a 7mm bleeder wrench and lo and behold it was too large! I purchased a couple of other standard size bleeder wrenches and will try them on the other screws.

Thanks for the tapping suggestion. They are so small the tapping is tricky.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Sun Jun 14, 2009 8:58 pm

Yep, you're right. I just looked at Muir, and he says to use the vise grips. Well, Muir died in 1978, so it's a little late to start ripping on him over a busted bleeder valve, but I'm sure he's responsible for plenty of them. I guess cars didn't rust much in New Mexico.

I've seen aftermarket wheel cylinders with various size bleeders, but the OEM Volkswagen size is 7mm.

When you tap the bleeder, make sure you tap it dead on and not from an angle, and the operative word is TAP.

rokemester · Post by **rokemester** » Wed Jun 17, 2009 5:08 am

Well I'm still struggling with the rear bleeders. The fronts came out nice and easy with a 1/4 inch bleeder wrench. Someone is playing games with me. I thought they were supposed to be 7mm. Has anyone seen back plates with an extra bolt that is holding the hydraulic fluid input and bleeder panel. When I loosen the bolt the panel moves giving me hope that I can replace the panel and not the entire $70 back plate.

rokemester · Post by **rokemester** » Sun Jun 28, 2009 9:58 pm

I replaced the front flexible lines the other day. Today I replaced the wheel cylinders, pulling and re-installing the drums with a torquemeister tool I found on the Pittsburgh Craigslist. What a marvelous tool!! Next I need to replace a couple hard lines and the rear flexible lines. Maybe I'll be bleeding later this week. PATIENCE is a virtue.

RobM · Post by **RobM** » Thu Jul 02, 2009 2:58 pm

[quote="Blue Baron"]Yep, you're right. I just looked at Muir, and he says to use the vise grips. Well, Muir died in 1978, so it's a little late to start ripping on him over a busted bleeder valve, but I'm sure he's responsible for plenty of them. quote]

Thank goodness I have someone else to blame for the one I ripped off with visegrips!

And here I was just blaming myself . . . .

The local tire shop said to forget about trying to get out the ripped off bleeder, they'd tried it with many cars. Easier to replace the wheel.

(So, I'm saving up for it . . . )

rokemester · Post by **rokemester** » Tue Jul 28, 2009 10:48 am

I ended up replacing all four wheel cylinders, flexible brake lines and generally cleaned up the drums and brake shoes which still had plenty of meat on them. I was able to bleed the system with a vacuum bleeder, but I think it is probably easier with a patient partner available to push the brake pedal on command. Murray seems to be stopping just fine.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Wed Jul 29, 2009 11:31 am

Be sure to inspect the long brake line that runs inside the car along the tunnel, and replace if badly rusted.

The 1966 VW Beetle Forum

Frozen bleeder screws and flexible brake lines

Frozen bleeder screws and flexible brake lines

John Muir

John Muir...May he rest in peace