Dear Friends:
I've enjoyed driving my bug on short drives during the 8 months I've had it, but I am considering taking it on a very long trip this spring. So I took my VW to my master mechanic to give it a good once-over. I really trust this guy as he is a wonderful hippie-type guy who also collects bugs and services VW's.
My mechanic said that my original 1300 engine (99,000 miles) is still good enough to putter around town. No problem. But he warns that if I still want to take my long trip, there are issues. The #3 valve/cylinder is getting ready to go, other engine parts are really worn and the entire engine should really be rebuilt. (The old lady who bought the car in 1966 really didn't do any work on the engine and it's leaking a lot more oil lately.)
After hearing the bad news, and mixing a few stiff drinks for courage, I started to look on the internet for engine rebuild kits. And I'm discouraged.
Perhaps I'm not looking in the right place, but I'm having trouble finding a high quality (new old stock) engine rebuild kit for the 50 HP, 1300 engine. I'm really obsessed with getting quality OEM or new/old stock parts made in Germany. I'd like to avoid Mexican or Chinese parts at all costs. And I'd rather not have used parts.
Does anyone have any advice? Could I use the rebuilt kits for the 1500 engines? Not a good idea?
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Miss Hilda Driver
Engine Crisis - Decision Time - Any advice welcome!
Have you looked on autopartsway.com. they have a lot of replacement parts OEM a la carte. How about vintagepartsinc.com (1-800-898-8684). Some of the other links on the home page probably have a part or two. Also maybe look on craigslist.com, possibly ebay too. If you have the book " how to keep your vw alive" try alot of those diffrent web sites. 
Sorry I don't have a 1300cc yet maybe down the line to complete restoration.
Sorry I don't have a 1300cc yet maybe down the line to complete restoration.
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volksbugusa
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miss hilda
hi
when ever you have to rebuild a motor it should be very exciting....The only advise that I can give you is to find the right builder...what state do live in...your motor is an f stamped block which is correct for your year...can you take a look to make sure...the serial number is located under underneath the generator stand .let me know...anyway there is a couple of thing you need to understand..
if your case has that many miles on it most likely it needs to be machined...meaning a line bore...hopefully this will be its first cut which is .010
But before this is done the bearing saddles must be checked to make sure they are not hammered
due to bad bearing know as bad end play.
You also need to have case savers installed...
a must......
your piston and cylinder that you purchase will now be 85.5 they do not make 83.5 any more nor would you want them yes you will get a kick in horsepower....no one will know....the last expense will be to have the heads machined to accept the new cylinders... and new valve guides and both valves replaced ,but the good news is you can use your single port set up....if you need to know more you can pm me anytime...matt
hi
when ever you have to rebuild a motor it should be very exciting....The only advise that I can give you is to find the right builder...what state do live in...your motor is an f stamped block which is correct for your year...can you take a look to make sure...the serial number is located under underneath the generator stand .let me know...anyway there is a couple of thing you need to understand..
if your case has that many miles on it most likely it needs to be machined...meaning a line bore...hopefully this will be its first cut which is .010
But before this is done the bearing saddles must be checked to make sure they are not hammered
due to bad bearing know as bad end play.
You also need to have case savers installed...
a must......
your piston and cylinder that you purchase will now be 85.5 they do not make 83.5 any more nor would you want them yes you will get a kick in horsepower....no one will know....the last expense will be to have the heads machined to accept the new cylinders... and new valve guides and both valves replaced ,but the good news is you can use your single port set up....if you need to know more you can pm me anytime...matt
Dear Friends:
Thanks for all of your advice. I just met with my mechanic, and after discussing all the options, I think we're going to rebuild the engine - using the pistons, etc. from the 1600 engine.
As you all know, its very difficult to get quality engine replacement parts for the 1300cc, so we're going to go with the 1600, which should give me a little boost of power too. It will be a stock engine, just 1600 instead of 1300.
I do trust my mechanic, who's been working on VW bugs since the early 70's.
Wish me luck & thanks for writing!
Thanks for all of your advice. I just met with my mechanic, and after discussing all the options, I think we're going to rebuild the engine - using the pistons, etc. from the 1600 engine.
As you all know, its very difficult to get quality engine replacement parts for the 1300cc, so we're going to go with the 1600, which should give me a little boost of power too. It will be a stock engine, just 1600 instead of 1300.
I do trust my mechanic, who's been working on VW bugs since the early 70's.
Wish me luck & thanks for writing!
If you go with the 87mm pistons and jugs on a 1300 block you'll have to machine the block to recieve the cylinders also new heads,dual port I imagine new intake new carb.Lot of stress on a 1300 single relief case for pressure.We used to build em up in the late 60's.You couldn't shift into 4th until you hit 60mph or they would lug down.They really ran and well but thet seem to all fail in the seam of the case and start profuse oil leakage.we went back to the 85.5 and no more problems. and we could reuse everything,The 85.5 are a direct slip on with the 1600 heads. 
66vw,62vwtrike,71vw super project car and 73vw bus,and one sometimes understanding wife