Hello Everyone!
I'm a proud owner of 66 and I love the car. A little background before I explain the issue. The previous owner of the car had put in a 2110cc. I do regular oil changes and also do regular valve adjustments. Full disclosure, I haven't had the engine actually gone through by a professional though. Also, the wiring of the whole car is a tangled web of nightmares but most of everything seems to functioning ok.
Now onto my actual issue, after a drive, maybe 15 to 30 minutes, when coming to a stop, my oil light starts to flicker on the dash and when I'm actually at a stop, I have keep the car in neutral so I can throttle the car to keep it from dying.
I cannot figure out what could be causing this issue. My oil sending unit seems to be fine and I'm using adequate weight of oil for my 2110. Could it be a dirty oil cooler, could my fan not be properly cooling and therefore thinning out my oil to much? Ultimately, is it an oil pressure issue? I've searched and searched all over the web and have read countless posts on this site as well and haven't seen anyone have an issue similar to this. If anyone could provide me with some insight, that would greatly appreciated as I'm dying to actually be able to drive my baby again for long nice cruises and I can't because of this issue.
Thanks in advance,
Chase
Oil light - Engine dies after long drive, help!
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cparker0820
- New Member
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:05 am
- Location: Carmel, Indiana
Check the idle and set between 800 and 900 rpms. Stock is around 700-800, but setting it higher will keep the cooling fan speed/oil pressure up a little more. You'll need to get some things to measure/verifying stuff. VDO, and Auto Gauge have nice little tiny 0-100 psi 1 1/2 diameter pressure gauges for about $40 and install with a T fitting and the stock pressure sender. This will verify the pressure at idle is as needed. The sender could be bad.
You can get an inexpensive infrared temp guns for around $40 as well to check engine temp. Or, a meat thermometer in the dipstick hold after running. If too high, it will cause oil to thin and drop pressure. Oil temp ranges from 180 - 200 depending on outside air temp. Much higher than 200 you may have a cooling fan issue. Check to see that the fan is not loose on the generator/alternator. Also, some say if you use a pulley other than stock size it slows the fan speed and will cause overheating. Normal running engines that have flickering oil lights, and will barely stay running after a short run is usually overheating.
Check the timing with a timing light.
As you said it's not a stock motor, I doubt you have the stock carb. If you did, You should also check the choke circuit. If a vacuum distributor, check the diaphragm to see its working. With a bigger motor you might not notice its not due to the extra power anyway.
Good Luck!
You can get an inexpensive infrared temp guns for around $40 as well to check engine temp. Or, a meat thermometer in the dipstick hold after running. If too high, it will cause oil to thin and drop pressure. Oil temp ranges from 180 - 200 depending on outside air temp. Much higher than 200 you may have a cooling fan issue. Check to see that the fan is not loose on the generator/alternator. Also, some say if you use a pulley other than stock size it slows the fan speed and will cause overheating. Normal running engines that have flickering oil lights, and will barely stay running after a short run is usually overheating.
Check the timing with a timing light.
As you said it's not a stock motor, I doubt you have the stock carb. If you did, You should also check the choke circuit. If a vacuum distributor, check the diaphragm to see its working. With a bigger motor you might not notice its not due to the extra power anyway.
Good Luck!
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cparker0820
- New Member
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2017 8:05 am
- Location: Carmel, Indiana
Darzoom,
Thanks for the response. You are correct, I"m not running a single carb. I am running dual solex's. I've been told that I should consider switching to to dual weber's instead but I haven't made the switch yet.
I'm also pretty sure that I have the correct pully size but I'll have to double check that. On the subject of the pully, I've been having troubles with my alternator actually charging my battery. Last drive I took, I was completely driving on the batter. So I suppose that my alternator issue could be loosely related to the alternator not spinning my fan fast enough. I will have to double check on that.
I've been told that a dirty oil cooler could also be doing me on on the overheating issue. I plan on pulling out the motor this weekend to check on that. Is putting in a larger fan and oil cooler something that you have heard of with people running the larger cc motors?
Again, thanks for the input. I'll give a try to some of the things that you said to try. I've never officially temp'ed my engine after running a bit but it does feel hotter than I would expect or have seen from other running motors. Last time I checked my timing, I believe that I have it set around 1000 as I was having troubles with idleing at anything lower but I'll give that a try as well.
Thanks for the response. You are correct, I"m not running a single carb. I am running dual solex's. I've been told that I should consider switching to to dual weber's instead but I haven't made the switch yet.
I'm also pretty sure that I have the correct pully size but I'll have to double check that. On the subject of the pully, I've been having troubles with my alternator actually charging my battery. Last drive I took, I was completely driving on the batter. So I suppose that my alternator issue could be loosely related to the alternator not spinning my fan fast enough. I will have to double check on that.
I've been told that a dirty oil cooler could also be doing me on on the overheating issue. I plan on pulling out the motor this weekend to check on that. Is putting in a larger fan and oil cooler something that you have heard of with people running the larger cc motors?
Again, thanks for the input. I'll give a try to some of the things that you said to try. I've never officially temp'ed my engine after running a bit but it does feel hotter than I would expect or have seen from other running motors. Last time I checked my timing, I believe that I have it set around 1000 as I was having troubles with idleing at anything lower but I'll give that a try as well.
Hi.
I hope you got some resolve. I was just curious as to how a 2110cc engine looks! Is it an engine on the standard block? Would you kindly post me a picture? I'm growing more to looking for more power especially for my transporter van that runs on a 1600cc aircolled engine that I feel is a little small an engine for the van.
Thank you.
I hope you got some resolve. I was just curious as to how a 2110cc engine looks! Is it an engine on the standard block? Would you kindly post me a picture? I'm growing more to looking for more power especially for my transporter van that runs on a 1600cc aircolled engine that I feel is a little small an engine for the van.
Thank you.
oil pressure light
Am I missing something, or have all my 10 VW's over the last 57 years been defective?
Every one of them would have either the the oil pressure light or the generator light flicker at idle after a good hard drive. This was especially true of the 6 volt 1966 and earlier VWs. I always thought that was normal for VWs.
Every one of them would have either the the oil pressure light or the generator light flicker at idle after a good hard drive. This was especially true of the 6 volt 1966 and earlier VWs. I always thought that was normal for VWs.
An old car nut who got his driver's license in a new 1961 VW and has owned 10 VW's (1957-1972) since then. Favorite was the 67's (2), but the 66 is the longest owned and current VW.