I am currently running a 2 inch narrowed, adjustable beam with 2 inch dropped spindles...To acheive the ride stance I want I have the adjusters set to their highest setting and the ride just plain sucks. Feels like the tires are the only suspension I have up front. The supension moves but very stiff.
My questions are...
Have I somehow put the tortion bars in a bind by having it adjusted all the way up?
If I lose the adjustable beam and just use the dropped spindles with a "regular" 2 inch narrowed beam will the ride improve and will I still get the same ride height?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Front suspension question
-
fatalifeaten
- Senior Member
- Posts: 512
- Joined: Sun Feb 03, 2008 12:05 am
- Location: The 480
Measure an inch out on either tire. At your current ride height, does that put your tire into the fender? Now, crank the steering wheel over to the lock and measure again Does that put you into the fender in a turn situation at your current ride height?
If these are both "no", then you can run a stock width beam with drop spindles and not have interference problems. If either of those is "yes", you can't run a stock width beam at your current ride height unless you change tires to clear your fenders.
As to why your ride is so stiff, You shouldn't be binding your torsions, but if you have them both set all the way up, you don't really have any suspension either. They need to be slightly offset to put some preload on the torsions. Lock one in, lower the car until you start taking some load on the front suspension, let the second one move a bit, then lock it in. This'll give you some suspension instead of riding on bricks. Also, what dampers are you running up front? If they're KYB gas-a-justs, there's your problem. WAY too stiff. See, you're already altering the spring rate when you narrow, and the more narrow you go, the stiffer the ride becomes. I run 100% stock oil filled dampers up front, stock length. With a drop spindle you can do this, and it's actually better than a lowered shock because the drop spindle allows you to run a stock shock geometry. This will soften up the bumps about as much as can be done. Your only other option would be to pull leaves out, and that's super dangerous.
If these are both "no", then you can run a stock width beam with drop spindles and not have interference problems. If either of those is "yes", you can't run a stock width beam at your current ride height unless you change tires to clear your fenders.
As to why your ride is so stiff, You shouldn't be binding your torsions, but if you have them both set all the way up, you don't really have any suspension either. They need to be slightly offset to put some preload on the torsions. Lock one in, lower the car until you start taking some load on the front suspension, let the second one move a bit, then lock it in. This'll give you some suspension instead of riding on bricks. Also, what dampers are you running up front? If they're KYB gas-a-justs, there's your problem. WAY too stiff. See, you're already altering the spring rate when you narrow, and the more narrow you go, the stiffer the ride becomes. I run 100% stock oil filled dampers up front, stock length. With a drop spindle you can do this, and it's actually better than a lowered shock because the drop spindle allows you to run a stock shock geometry. This will soften up the bumps about as much as can be done. Your only other option would be to pull leaves out, and that's super dangerous.