Optima Batteries

pira114 · Post by **pira114** » Mon Jun 28, 2010 10:25 pm

I've seen a few people recommend Optima batteries for the 6 volt system here.

My question is that I thought they recommended the yellow top. When I searched, I could only find the optima in 6v with the red top. The specs on both batteries are very close. Do they make a 6v optima with the yellow top? And if they do, why is it any better than the red?

The only concern I had was that Optima's website said that the red top 6v is for those systems that had an alternator that can handle these types of electrical loads. Am I missing something? Or overthinking it?

What do you all think?

jimbolia · Post by **jimbolia** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:32 pm

I was wondering that also, and if is short enough to put the seat all the way down in it's groove. My seat sits up on the rail now with a rubber mat over the battery. Thanks

Roadbug · Post by **Roadbug** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:38 pm

The red top 6 Volt Optima is a great battery, but expensive.
A NAPA 6 volt 19L battery is the right size and shape foe the 6 volt VW, availabe under part #5019L at about 1/3 the cost of the Optima. It fits on the original VW battery tray and the metal top/cover fits. If you use the Optima you have to lay it down and devise another hold down strap/cover.
I've used both and will continue to use the NAPA 19L as long as Johnson Controls will manufacture it for NAPA.
The 19L is short enough to stand up with the cover abd still not short out on your seat springs and set your VW on fire. I understand they also have a 12 Volt of the same size as the 19L (the original VW spec battery)
for those who've given up on the original 6 volt system.
Don't expect your NAPA store to have it on the shelfm but give them a few days and they can get it. #5019L in their parts computer. I also bet nobody in the store will beleive you know the right part #.

pira114 · Post by **pira114** » Sat Jul 03, 2010 4:27 am

Roadbug wrote:The red top 6 Volt Optima is a great battery, but expensive.
A NAPA 6 volt 19L battery is the right size and shape foe the 6 volt VW, availabe under part #5019L at about 1/3 the cost of the Optima. It fits on the original VW battery tray and the metal top/cover fits. If you use the Optima you have to lay it down and devise another hold down strap/cover.
I've used both and will continue to use the NAPA 19L as long as Johnson Controls will manufacture it for NAPA.
The 19L is short enough to stand up with the cover abd still not short out on your seat springs and set your VW on fire. I understand they also have a 12 Volt of the same size as the 19L (the original VW spec battery)
for those who've given up on the original 6 volt system.
Don't expect your NAPA store to have it on the shelfm but give them a few days and they can get it. #5019L in their parts computer. I also bet nobody in the store will beleive you know the right part #.

Ok, I just searched NAPA for the battery. It's $99 where I live. Plus $10 core. The Optima battery can be had for about $125. Not that much more expensive. The mounting issue could be a problem. Haven't looked into it that much yet. Is mounting this battery that big of an issue? I wouldn't mind paying $20 or $30 more for a battery if it's that much better.

So, how hard is mounting this battery? And what other parts are needed to do it?

Roadbug · Post by **Roadbug** » Sat Jul 03, 2010 8:08 pm

The big deal with the Optima is the high "cold cranking Amps" (900) and it should last 6 years. The 5019L has 575. Fully charged it's just like the original. They last about 4 years.
Problem is I have 3 different 6 Volt cars (a VW and two Early Ford Flathead V8's) and have never had an Optima last more than 4 years. They don't die, but the cold cranking amps drops to 400 which is not enough for the V8's. (I've not tried the old Optima in a VW)
My 66 VW has the original battery pan and a metal cover that protects the terminals from being hit by seat springs and shorting out. The cover is held on with a strap that holds the battery in place.
They told me $165 for the Optima and then discounted the 5019L to $80.00.
AAA Members get a discount at NAPA and about anybody who asks can get a service station discount too.
If I couldn't get the 5019L. I would by an Optima from a dealer that would discount it. Then I would lay it down and build a new strap to hild it int he battery tray. (Save the original strap and cover for the next owner)
I just like the original stuff if I can keep it that way.

pira114 · Post by **pira114** » Sat Jul 03, 2010 10:27 pm

Cool. Thanks for the info. $80 to $165 is a big difference. $99 to $125 not so much. I think I'll go into NAPA and see what the real deal is. Sometimes internet shopping gives false returns.

I might be able to get the 19L cheaper than the $99 they advertise. And then, the $125 is an online auto parts dealer. Didn't stop to check if they charge shipping. On a batter, that could be huge. NAPA's price on the Optima might be more in the area you said.

Either way, I need some juice! I'm off to the store after the holiday. Need to get her driving again.

BERHAN · Post by **BERHAN** » Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:13 pm

the main difference between a red top and the yellow top is the yellow top is a deep cycle battery, which means that if you have a high powered car stereo or off road lighting, this is the battery for you. It holds the charge longer before dropping off. One advantage of either, they can be mounted in any direction...Terry

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:43 am

I recommend the red-top Optima. That's all I use in my 6-volt cars. They have better cranking, last longer and won't leak and rust the pan. My friend fabbed a special mounting for the Optima for my '63, but you can mount them any way you want, even on the side. On the '66 I just purchased I bought a longer ground strap so I can lay the Optima on its side.

jimbolia · Post by **jimbolia** » Fri Jul 09, 2010 1:05 pm

anyone got any pictures of these optima batteries installed? curious to see them in the car. I have new six volt battery but my seat has to sit on the rail instead of tucked in behind it so I am thinking about getting one of these. thanks.

rokemester · Post by **rokemester** » Fri Jul 09, 2010 9:19 pm

I just picked up a 19L battery from Interstate. It fits perfectly and I can use the original metal cover to prevent the battery terminals from touching the rear seat springs. It was closer to $75 than $99.

vanquisheder · Post by **vanquisheder** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:35 pm

BERHAN wrote:the main difference between a red top and the yellow top is the yellow top is a deep cycle battery, which means that if you have a high powered car stereo or off road lighting, this is the battery for you. ...Terry

Thanks a lot for the wonderful piece of advice. Now it's clear to me that the same battery cannot work in all the cars.

pira114 · Post by **pira114** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:46 pm

I ended up getting the 19L for now. Seems to be fine so far. It came down to price for me right now. Next time I might go with the optima.

And I paid about $89. Right between the two prices listed here. Of course.

joelpalmer · Post by **joelpalmer** » Thu Dec 10, 2015 4:39 pm

I am about to resurrect a 1966 VW sedan (Savannah Beige) from a garage where it has been since 1989. I hope to get photos of hauling this out. I wondered if there were any battery updates available for this car since this thread was posted years ago. I would ideally like an Optima but can go with a standard battery for now as I have bigger fish to fry (Is engine seized of free; four flat tires; drain clean out gas tank; make a set of keys and so on. ANY advice will be acknowledged and appreciated as I am a rookie to air cooled cars. THX in advance

hercdriver · Post by **hercdriver** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 7:33 am

I run the Optima red top battery and like it. The extra cranking amps help with a tired 6 volt electrical system. I lay it on its side where the original battery went. The best deals I've found were buying directly from Optima on their web site (no tax and free shipping). Google coupons for them as well.

joelpalmer · Post by **joelpalmer** » Fri Dec 11, 2015 8:11 am

@Herc

Thank you and I will see if I can make that work! I am still trying to get a service that will 1. Remove an Oldsmobile that is blocking the garage (will be scrapped) and then 2. tow the car to the mechanic for initial evaluation. Likely be after January 1

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