Bad Cam? Electrical issue

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spokaneDave
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Bad Cam? Electrical issue

Post by spokaneDave »

o I just got my beloved 66' back for getting a tune up and new distributer put in and the mechanic I went to seemed to think that the cam is pretty worn and needs replacing. He says that she wants to run lean and the engine cant suck in enough fuel because of a bad cam. He also pulled on the pulley to show me that there is slight movement. Im not too sure what that meant but he mentioned that the movement is a sign of a very worn engine. I drove her home and she seemed to run alright, but ran best in 3rd and 4th gears. From what I know about the 66', 1st and 2nd were geared a bit lower, is that true?

Also, my lights suck! Turn signals are intermitant and I have one very faint brake light. I am thinking to check fuses first, then bulbs, then relays. Is there anything else I am missing?

By the way, the weather is cold here and we havent seen any snow in the last 3 weeks. It is a great time to drive a bug!

Later!
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scruffy
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Post by scruffy »

You should have some movement in and out on your crank.You suppose to drive em like you stole em.you do not want to lug em!
66vw,62vwtrike,71vw super project car and 73vw bus,and one sometimes understanding wife
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scruffy
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Post by scruffy »

Oh check your grounds on your lights and check your fuel pump. If your not getting enough gas an electric will take care of that. :D
66vw,62vwtrike,71vw super project car and 73vw bus,and one sometimes understanding wife
spokaneDave
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OK

Post by spokaneDave »

I will check those, but the wiring is a mess! I am still trying to figure out all the relays, connections, etc.... And looking at the black and white wiring diagrams is like trying to read mandarin chinese. Plus, my bug was converted to 12V so I am not too sure what is what.

Question for you: How can I distinguish between the relays, what goes to what? Also, my left turn signals work, and the right ones dont. (I think it is the bulbs) but also my emergency flashers dont work either......where do you think my problem is?

Thanks Scruffy! By the way, has it been warming up at all? Single digits here but next week it is suppose to get up to the low 40's. We are definately flirting with some flooding issues.
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scruffy
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Post by scruffy »

Dave. there is a cardboard cover on your right side of your engine compartment.slip it off it's only held on by sheet metal clips. there is a wiring connector there for your right side wiring. maybe she come loose or a mouse made a home. also check your fuse connections. -21 this morning but they said it's suppose to warm up now and snow. :(
66vw,62vwtrike,71vw super project car and 73vw bus,and one sometimes understanding wife
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jmartini
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Post by jmartini »

Hi Dave: Not sure if this will help, but on the main site I have a wiring diagram in color.
Blue Baron
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Post by Blue Baron »

I'm assuming your mechanic (or preferably you) has adjusted the valves. A bad or worn cam lobe can be determined by the valve adjustment gap on opposing valves geting wider. (Example, if No. 1 and No. 3 intake valve gaps get corresponsingly wider, there's a problem with that cam lobe, which works both sides of the engine.) If you're noticing it's taking more and more adjustment to set the valves because the valve gaps on opposing valves are getting disproportionately wider compared to the rest of the valves, it could be an issue with the cam.

I'm assumiong your electrical system is still 6 volt. As was mentioned previously, you need to start cleaning every electrical contact, from the battery grounds to the headlight grounds. Also, check the ground strap from the transmission to the body. One trick I do is run an extra ground cable from the back of the battery grounding bolt in the pan to the lower starter bolt.
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