help with valve adjust...

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not4sale
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help with valve adjust...

Post by not4sale »

Help!! What should have been a quick timing, valve adjust has turned into an all day project. Problem - no matter how far "out" I turn the adjusting screw, there is NO clearance for the feeler guage on the intake valves. The exhaust valves adjusted fine...what am I doing wrong???
Thanks for any advice,
not4sale (Lisa)
Lisa - My '66 was purchased for $175 when I was 15...running strong but ready to restore 29 yrs later. Could always use help/advice!
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jmartini
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Post by jmartini »

Hi Lisa (and Welcome!): The rocker arm may ba a little sticky - have you pushed down on the opposite end of the rocker arm to tighten up the valve train (go to the opposite side across from the adjusting screw and push down to take out the slack)?. That should move the adjusting screw away from the valve once you have the screw loosened. Good luck with the valve adjustment Lisa!
volksbugusa
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Post by volksbugusa »

lisa:
did you remove the number one spark plug to find the TDC .
are you moving the engine COUNTERCLOCK ...

once the pulley is set to top dead center you the can being adjusting the valves...STONE COLD MOTOR...STONE COLD...
I am sure on the pulley you have your marks set including the 180 mark

when adusting use the 006..you must put a little pressure one the back of the rocker and then slide your 006 blade in,, there should be slight drag now tighten the screw...now go to the next valve and do the same..to test you should not be able to slide in a 008.blade if it does you are not set..once this is done
turn the pulley to the 180 to that mark and now you are on the number two....
same steps...this has to work !!!! IT IS BEST TO USE FEELERS THAT HAVE A L SHAPE PROFILE...OK if there is still a problem please email me at

mdazzo@optonline.net..i will talk to you on the phone

volksbugusa
matt
not4sale
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Post by not4sale »

Thanks for the help; everything suggested here has been done, except for removing the plugs. I'll start there this morning. I've done this 100's of times on my '66. (Currently garaged and in "resto" stage...watch for questions on that later this summer!) The current problem is with a '74 (not super). Process should be the same, right? I suspect I may not be at TDC, although the exhaust valves are not giving me any problems...that's the frustrating part. I'll get to work and keep you posted
Thanks, Lisa
Lisa - My '66 was purchased for $175 when I was 15...running strong but ready to restore 29 yrs later. Could always use help/advice!
volksbugusa
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Post by volksbugusa »

Lisa:
When you remove the number one plug..you need to stick a wooden dowel down thru the spark plug hole so that it is resting on the top of the piston.As you turn the pulley COUNTERCLOCK and are going up to the number one plug you should see the stick move outward.do this very slowly and help move the wooden stick outward because it will jam if you are moving to fast..now keep looking at the mark on the pulley .move slow until the wooden dowel does not move forward anymore SLOW!!
this will be top dead center which should match your TDC mark on the pulley.Now if this is 100% then your 180 degree mark should also line up...Do you understand the process...If you feel you went to fast and have passed the TDC mark on the pulley you have to keep turning the pulley COUNTER CLOCK until you come up to the # 1 cylinder again...
YOU CAN NEVER PASS AND THEN GO CLOCKWISE..if YOU MISS YOU HAVE TO ROTATE THRU ALL THE CYLINDERS..Once you are are satisfied that you are TDC on number one I need for you to remove the dizzy cap
you should be in line with the marked factory line on the rim and the center to the rotor brass. Let me know if you do not understand..

Volksbugusa
Matt
Last edited by volksbugusa on Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
volksbugusa
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Post by volksbugusa »

lisa::
long dowel...Do not use a short dowel...you do not want it to fall in!!!
not4sale
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Post by not4sale »

Thanks for all of the advice; I believe (after fooling with it for awhile again today) that the problem is that I'm not finding TDC! Unfortunately, time was short today and now it's off to a work week, so will try again next weekend. All advice given makes perfect sense - I'll try the dowel method, that should do the trick. Will keep you posted - Thanks again :)
Lisa - My '66 was purchased for $175 when I was 15...running strong but ready to restore 29 yrs later. Could always use help/advice!
volksbugusa
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Post by volksbugusa »

lisa

of course you realize your mark on the pulley and TDC has to be in line with the half case line where the two sides of the case meet. yes you are correct.you are not on TDC.but if you follow the outlines i have given you ,you will be.when you are done with everthing change the gaskets
on the cover...best to use grease on both sides,this will also create a good none leaking seal....once this is all done and you now know TDC
it will be very easy for you to static TIME your motor....very important that the timing is set ...this will keep the motor cool and will insure that the valve adjustment you did will HOLD. bad timing will create heat...which
expands the heads and that is how you throw push rods and bad things..

volksbugusa
matt
volksbugusa
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Post by volksbugusa »

lisa

is the adjustment completed?
not4sale
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Post by not4sale »

Job done...thanks guys for all of your help/advice. This won't be such a chore next time around.
Lisa - My '66 was purchased for $175 when I was 15...running strong but ready to restore 29 yrs later. Could always use help/advice!
volksbugusa
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Post by volksbugusa »

Lisa:
great news ,how does it run,did you static time the motor?
volksbugusa
matt
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jmartini
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Post by jmartini »

Way to go Lisa!!! :D
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