I gonna c4 this motor.

Badman24 · Post by **Badman24** » Mon Nov 02, 2015 5:10 pm

This motor ran fine other than the hesitation. Ran around the neighborhood, came home turned off car. When I went to move it into the garage it wouldn't start. I tried everything I could think of. The carb squirts great into the manifold (rebuilt the carb). Fooled with the points, change the points. Now I just change the dizzy from a good motor, changed and tested coil. change spark plugs. pulled plugs and grounded them against the block, turn over the car and they spark good. Something just isnt right. As a matter of fact I think gas was coming from the valve covers. which tells me something major is wrong. I think thats where it came from. it was hard to see. Wife is going to kill me. She says its cute but this thing has to run. Any VW engine people in Rapid City? lol

darzoom · Post by **darzoom** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:24 am

Sorry not near Rapid City. The thing works on suck/bang/blow. For that you need spark, fuel and compression. Seems you have spark and fuel. Compression may be the issue. If gas is coming fro the valve covers the valve is stuck open or out of adjustment. Sounds like a valve adjustment may be in order. When you do it check to see that all the pushrods push the valves by turning the engine over with a wrench and watching the valves move. If a one man job set a mirror on the ground to see the valves as you turn the engine over with a wrench. And remember to replace the gaskets when you put the valve covers back on. The cork gaskets are not re-usable and will leak.

Badman24 · Post by **Badman24** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 9:29 am

forgot to mention, I did the valve adjustment. everything worked great. However i didnt have the gasket so yes I knew they would leak. So I have to order those

darzoom · Post by **darzoom** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:10 pm

Great on the valve adjustment. I will assume you know that all valves worked and were set correctly. BTW, if you set the valves in the wrong order or off stroke (I admit I have done that before) you create the possibility to bend a valve or pushrod. You need to take all the plugs out and check for compression. The big box parts stores will lend you a compression tester. If you have spark at the right time (again I have put a distributor in off stroke and the engine usually backfires), compression and fuel there is no reason the engine should not start.

I know it is frustrating, but you need to check all three and the suck bang blow will work.

Badman24 · Post by **Badman24** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 2:21 pm

I set the valves in order of 1234. I will go get a compression tester. this suck/bang/blow is what frustrates me. it worked just fine then just stop working. I dont know. Maybe I put the leaking oily one back in. lol jk. I just cant figure it out. If I had the money i would rebuild the 1600 leaky oily one.

darzoom · Post by **darzoom** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 3:52 pm

If it was running, it is something that was changed. It sounds like the timing of the spark to the valves is off. Just to be sure: You had to start with #1 at TDC by the mark on the crank, valves both closed (you should be able to spin or move the pushrods and move the rocker) and the rotor pointing to the #1 wire position if the cap was on. Adjust #1, rotate 180, adjust 2 checking for valves closed and rotor pointing to #2 plug wire. Then #3 and #4 checking the same way. Do this before a compression check. It should only take a few minutes as you have to put new gaskets on anyway. Then drink an adult beverage before checking compression to brace yourself that nothing is bent inside.

Take a breath, you will get through this.

Badman24 · Post by **Badman24** » Tue Nov 03, 2015 4:03 pm

yep I did it the way you said except i didnt look at the distributor. I can actually bend over and move the crank and see if the valves move or not. I didnt change anything to the motor, it just stopped working and have been checking every little thing. thanks for the help by the way.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Wed Dec 16, 2015 6:12 pm

You need to look at the distributor to make sure the rotor is pointing toward No. 1 plug wire or you can be 180 degrees off. However, it sounds like you did it right.

So are you saying the engine wouldn't start when it was hot? Did it start okay again when it was cold? When it was hot, did you try starting it by depressing the gas pedal to the floor? If that works, your engine is running hot. This is pretty normal if you just come off the expressway, but is a bad sign after a light drive. A well-tuned VW should start at a touch of the key when the engine is warm.

Badman24 · Post by **Badman24** » Thu Dec 17, 2015 8:40 am

Didn't start during any temp. I check the compression and got only 70 PSI, so I started rebuilding the 1600 dual port. I stripped the single port that's in the car to a long block and going to see what usable.