Stalling/No idle

OurRed116 · Post by **OurRed116** » Sun Jun 09, 2013 3:15 pm

We just bought a 1966 Beetle this week. The car developed a bad stalling problem as soon as I added gas to the tank. It's to the point that it won't idle at all. Any suggestions?

Since the car was part of an estate (and sat for awhile) I wonder if adding gas stirred up who knows what in the tank, which is now working through the system. Is it worth it to try to adjust the idle speed or replace the fuel filter? Or just wait a week until it goes in to a local Bug Specialist for some other issues and ask them to flush the tank?

I've never owned a Bug before, but I did just purchase the Muir book and the Bentley manual. All suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Tue Jun 11, 2013 2:42 pm

Can we assume a full tune-up has been done? (new points, plugs, timing, valve adjustment, etc.?) Otherwise there's no point chiming in.

rknowles · Post by **rknowles** » Mon Jun 24, 2013 6:17 pm

Had similar problem - carb was just needing a rebuild ($20 rebuild kit, a tin of parts cleaner, a can of 'spray air' and about an hour's work) cured the rough running. Now & again the inlet jet will stick open and flood the car so it won't start. I think it's residual crud in the fuel pump coming through, but I don't want to put a fuel filter anywhere under the decklid due to fire risk. A quick whack on the top of the float chamber usually frees it up, once I had to take the top off the carb at the side of the road to free it - take off air cleaner, undo 5 screws, wiggle the plunger, reassemble, go on down the road, 2 minutes tops. The refusing to idle turned out to be a seized idle shutoff valve. I took it off the carb, snipped the very end of the 'nose' off, took out the sliding pin and put the valve back on the carb. Everything fine. On the rare occasions the engine does 'run-on' after I turn the key off, I put her in 2nd gear & let the clutch up gently to stall the motor. Early carbs didn't have the valve. John Muir's book reccomends ditching the valve. I read some people just throw it away & plug the hole it leaves with a rubber bung. Hope this gets you running.

rknowles · Post by **rknowles** » Mon Jun 24, 2013 6:23 pm

Of course, as Blue Baron points out, you'd be wise to start at the valve clearances, the check plug gaps, points & timing as a matter of course. Muir's book will advise you to do them all on a regular basis (3000 miles/3 months I think.) Check at least the suspension, steering & brakes for proper operation & loose bolts before you drive you new baby. I drove my new purchase home 50 miles and found that of the 10 wheelbolts at the front, 2 were missong and three of the remaining eight were stripped.

OurRed116 · Post by **OurRed116** » Thu Jul 11, 2013 7:19 pm

Update - under the helpful instruction of a local VW club member (and use of his tools), I performed a complete tune up and carb rebuild on our Bug. Afterwards, the car ran great for several weeks.

I've since bought the tools and feeler gauges I need for next time.

I had a local shop replace the rusted out battery tray with a new right rear quarter pan, and then new ball joints, fuel lines, swing axle boots, and a brake adjustment completed the overall check-up.

However, after a recent outing in some very hot Texas temps, the car seemed to be having what may be a coil issue. I'll report back once I replace the coil.

Blue Baron · Post by **Blue Baron** » Mon Jul 15, 2013 10:32 am

Sounds like you're becoming an educated bug owner very quickly.