The 1966 VW Beetle Forum

Nope. Apples and oranges.

I see you have a degree wheel pulley, which makes things easy. Forget static timing and get your timing light out and set it to 28 degrees total advance (rev the motor until full advance) and then see where it sits at idle. Initial advance should be around the 7.5 mark. These are factory settings. T...

Hi.

Email my VW buddy Clayton at ClaytonCapps@Hotmail.com

He lives in your neck of the woods and should be able to make some suggestions.

It's not that I'm a doubter or that I don't care. It's that good replacements are available and that was the route I chose to go. But I'm all for doing it yourself.

They were on '66 buses as well as bugs, so that widens your search a bit.

Yep. That's one of those '66 only things that makes it stand out from the rest. I'm thinking the '67 switch is a larger diameter and has a bigger hole in the dash. The knob is also different, though the "EMERGENCY 88" red cap is the same. (Does anybody know what "88" means?) Star...

Yep. That's basically what I said. The valve actually works in reverse. It's off when the engine is on. When the ignition is switched on, the valve holds the plunger open. When the ignition is switched off, the valve lets the plunger close, which cuts off the idle. If the valve stops working, the pl...

The oil temperature dipstick is a good addition, but from my experience they start flicking well within the safety zone. It isn't until it starts staying on solid that I slow down.

I prefer single port on a stock engine. You run into fewer carb/hesitation problems.

I just remove the valve and saw off the plunger with a Dremel, reinstall and drive. (Don't bother hooking up the wire.) If the engine gets hot and diesels (which is rarely), I just dump the clutch in first gear with my foot on the brake to cut the engine.

I wouldn't bother trying to restore one. They fall to pieces when they get old. I'd look for good used, buy the repro or search for the closest VW parts seller in Canada.

KKV270, I don't remember your car being a '67, especially since this is a 1966 page! 1967 was a censored year with many one-year-only parts. Volkswagen changed the door striker to a safety design that year. The only proper door for a '67 is from another a '67, though '68 and later doors will work if...

If the light goes out and stays out when you increase rpm, you should be fine. The light staying on during idle could indicate some resistance in your 49-year-old wiring.

You're on the right track for everything.

Yes, a 1600 just doesn't get the cooling air it needs in a '66 compartment. A convertible decklid is the solution, though the tennis ball trick works wonders.

The '67/'68 swingaxle transmission had the 4.12:1 ring and pinion and longer third gear, and is ideal for 1500 and 1600 engines. If you're running the stock 1300, you may want to stick with the 4.37:1. Also keep in mind, the '67 had longer axles, and the rear tires don't sit as deep in the fenders. ...